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As a strength athlete it was very interesting to read how the training is done for an endurance based sport.The section on adaptions for altitude was particularly interesting as it s something I ve never read about before.The biggest takeaway I got from the book is the commonsense thought that when going into the mountains speed is safety This doesn t mean rushing Rather it means having the fitness to move continually at an optional speed This is shown in most of the personal accounts in the book. This book caught my attention because of my interest in endurance see Endure or The Pursuit of Endurance and a newborn desire in trail running and maybe mountaineering The book is well structured with tons of information I was already familiar with the physiological aspect of endurance training and must say that the overview here is one of the best I have ever read It never stops to amaze me how the human machinery is orchestrated by rather simple biochemical processes When it comes to training it was revealing that 1 a strong base is the foundation for everything else, 2 that base training doesn t have to be specific and 3 that there is no shortcut CrossFit for instance allows for quick results, especially when you have never done such kind of exercises before, but sooner or later you will plateau As Phil Maffetone and others have already figured out, the only cure is to work on your aerobic base What I missed though was the fact that to benefit from training at a low heart rate you have to train frequently 5 6 times per week and from time to time go long 1 per week Besides the many tips how to build your own plan I loved the stories and photos From outside one usually only sees the final triumph but rarely the years of preparation that went into it I also loved the insights from a coaching point of view Science will often rediscover or validate what coaches already know from their work with athletes These nuggets of wisdom are priceless.The author has a new book in stock that might be better for people like me who are not climbing rooks but just want to move in the mountains or in hilly terrain Training for the Uphill Athlete. This book is really good to start mountain training planning, but I wouldn t follow the recommendations for exercises that are not mountain specific really good explanation of what the body goes through while climbing hiking exercising really good explanation of the muscles involved in different exercises and how to correctly train them good training program outline good mountain specific exercise recommendations that can be done at home gym flat meh recommendations for gym exercises Some of the recommended exercises are not recommended in gyms because they can cause injuries and are not good iatefficiently stimulating muscles Overall there are better exercises than the ones given in the book, just ask PTs at the gym, they should have a better understanding of how you should train for whatever your goals may be meh recommendations for running exercises The running community has a much deeper understanding of how to correctly train for running, and those are better than the basics recommended in the book nutrition was basic, was expecting muchdetailed information about nutrition while training and nutrition at altitude The book has a lot of sample size of 1 recommendations, which is usually not what you should follow no stretching The book mentions flexibility as being important several times, but doesn t cover that area at all Especially given that flexibility is important while rock ice alpine climbing, I find this is to be a big gap in the book dealing with altitude the sample size is small, but the recommendations I found to be sound, based on my limited experience decent recommendations of how to toughen the mental aspect of climbing This is highly subjective and mostly non scientific, but I think this subject is so vast that it could ve been it s own book Best book on sports training that I ve ever read ahem the only book on sports training that I ve managed to finish I ve tried to read other sports training books and I ve never completed one That s because the books, while great books, were aimed at coaches and trainers, never at me, the person being trained I ve read the book and have reread some chaptersthan once The information has been enlightening If you want an easily digestible explanation of performance centered physical training, this is a good book This is not a book full of training recipes There are example routines and logs presented in the book, but these are meant as guides After reading the book, you ll be able to create your own training programs.Although the book is focused on alpine climbing, the basic sports training information it contains is applicable to any sport The book is about training to climb mountains in an alpine environment, so there s a ton of climbing related information in the book Most of the climbing anecdotes are side barred and highlighted though, so if you have no interest in them, you can skip them. Extensively well researched book for anyone at all skill levels who wants to scale mountains The best part about the book is that it is a training manual that teaches you to be your own coach, and that first starts with self awareness of yourself as an athlete and where your base foundation or starting point is This book similar to running s Lore of running trains you how to design and adapt an appropriate workout regimen for your alpine goals What I really enjoy about the book is that there is no single best exercise program or technique that applies for everyone, and the author makes sure to highlight this To present the reader with choice, he features Olympic and seasoned climbers of different nationalities and their different training methods However, the featured climbers are overwhelming white men, and it only features one woman It would bebalanced to feature alpinists of different physiques, such as women, and how their bodies adapt to acclimatization and training methods The author is an accomplished alpine climber and world record breaker he writes with passion, transcendence and knowledge Alpine climbing is risky it requires extreme planning and rational judgement, and the author shares methods on how to mentally train yourself and suppress your ego prior and during climbing. Reading Jon Krakauer s superb memoir Into Thin Air A Personal Account of the Mount Everest Disaster has left me with a lot of questions, so I started looking for a book that would help me get to the bottom of high altitude climbing I hit the jackpot with Training for the New Alpinism Steve House and Scott Johnston start with the fundamentals of training, eating, and exercising and then show how to translate that knowledge into a proper methodology for getting your body and mind ready to hit 5,000 meter peaks Even if you are not planning to climb Denali or Annapurna anytime soon, I strongly recommend this book for the amount of valuable advice it has on building your strength training routine and devising the right nutrition and regimen to go along with that For example, Steve and Scott s advice on increasing the number of pull ups you can do is brilliant and immediately actionable And their stories on the challenges of maintaining proper calorie intake at the high altitude eye opening and downright scary But of course, there isThe book is choke full of gorgeous climbing pictures and personal stories of celebrity climbers And, you know, reading about how all these people caught their mountain bug the type of gruelling training they have to put up with for a chance of spending a few weeks in the mountains learning about the tough situations they face when exposed to the elements and how much ingenuity goes in surviving these all of that puts the daily grind we regular mortals spending their lives at the sea level in a perspective I felt inspired to reach forand challenge myself to do the things I would never dream of before And for that, I thank you Steve and Scott Training For The New Alpinism is on one hand something so obvious it s staggering it s not been done before taking the well trodden principles of training by overload, periodisation, etc from running and cycling training and applying them to alpine climbing That said, there s a lot here that s interesting and it s good to see a different approach to training than climb lots.There are a few areas where authorial bias creeps in and unsettled scientific theories are presented as fact the authors have strong opinions and are not shy about sharing them but overall it s an excellent book and essential reading for anyone interested in the subject and by specificity of focus of almost no interest to anyone else. Required reading for aspiring alpinistsPhenomenal book The structure is great and there s a lot of helpful information in here I ve been a long distance runner for most of my life, and this book really helped me transition from purely road work into mountaineering alpinism Like any book, there s only so much information an author can put into the pages of one volume If you re really interested in this stuff, go read the other titles mentioned There s a ton of great stuff in this space. Hutn , dlouh a komplexn kniha o lezeck m tr ninku se zam en m na alpinismus. ^FREE DOWNLOAD ☆ Training for the New Alpinism ↜ In Training For The New Alpinism, Steve House, World Class Climber And Patagonia Ambassador, And Scott Johnston, Coach Of US National Champions And World Cup Nordic Skiers, Translate Training Theory Into Practice To Allow You To Coach Yourself To Any Mountaineering Goal Applying Training Practices From Other Endurance Sports, House And Johnston Demonstrate That Following A Carefully Designed Regimen Is As Effective For Alpinism As It Is For Any Other Endurance Sport And Leads To Better Performance They Deliver Detailed Instruction On How To Plan And Execute Training Tailored To Your Individual Circumstances Whether You Work As A Banker Or A Mountain Guide, Live In The City Or The Country, Are An Ice Climber, A Mountaineer Heading To Denali, Or A Veteran Of , Meter Peaks, Your Understanding Of How To Achieve Your Goals Grows Exponentially As You Work With This Book Chapters Cover Endurance And Strength Training Theory And Methodology, Application And Planning, Nutrition, Altitude, Mental Fitness, And Assessing Your Goals And Your Strengths Chapters Are Augmented With Inspiring Essays By World Renowned Climbers, Including Ueli Steck, Mark Twight, Peter Habeler, Voytek Kurtyka, And Will Gadd Filled With Photos, Graphs, And Illustrations