@KINDLE è Annapurna î eBook or E-pub free

I'm not a climberI'm a tea shop trekker. I've trekkedwalkedin approx 50 of Nepal's 75 districts. I love any trek where I know there's a tea shop at least every couple of hours, and some place for a hot meal and a dry bed at the end of the day. Ice picks and crampons are not my thing. That being said, I enjoyed this book immensely. Even if your interest is more about Nepal more than the climbing, I'd recommend this book. It provides a pretty rare look into the Nepal of 1950, that is to say the Nepal that was not yet open to the world. No roads, no embassies (except the British Embassy), so very little exchange with the outside world. These climbers set out to climb the 8000 meter peak Dhaulagiri (and ended up on Annapurna I) without so much as a good map to show them how to get there. Half of their Sherpa/porter crew was carrying nothing but *coins* when they started out, because paper money was not accepted in the villages where they were headed.

Sir Edmund Hillary who just died yesterday, didn't climb Everest til 1953; this climb was in 1950. It was a very, very different world back then. This book is as good a way as any to get a look. This was one of the first adult books I read as a child about 60 yrs ago. I still remember how much I loved it. I have recommended it to a couple of my grandchildren as a reminder that there will be many challenges in life, most conquerable with determination.
@KINDLE ⛈ Annapurna Í Annapurna WikipdiaAnnapurna I Wikipdia Anapurna Vtements Achat En Ligne Dans Un Vaste Choix Sur La Boutique Vtements Annapurna, La Cime Qui Dcime Libration Annapurna, La Cime Qui Dcime Par Didier Arnaudjanviermis Jour LefvrierAnnapurna, La Cime Qui Dcime Giasco FlickrAnnapurna, PremierHerzog, MauriceNot Annapurna, PremierHerzog, Maurice, Devies, Lucien Et Des Millions De Romans En Livraison Rapide Annapurna Htel ANNAPURNA Un Nouveau Chapitre Conduits Par La Passion De La Montagne Et Du Ski, Christiane Et Andr Pinturault Sont Arrivs Courchevel Au Dbut Des AnnesEn , Ils Dcidrent De Construire Leur Second Tablissement La Construction Dura Deux TsetLe Premier Htel De Luxe Nouvelle Gnration, Baptis Annapurna, Ouvrit Pour Nol I'm torn between one star and five. Five star for the high adventure, one star for how the the expedition team treated the locals. This book gives account of 1950 French expedition to Annapurna, where they have to actually locate the mountain first before climbing it. The book itself is a page turner, I practically finished the last half or more in one sitting. While all these are fine and dandy, what is NOT okay is to force, yes, literally force the villagers to work as porters, take the load of the expedition and even carry the injured members of the expeditions. What was it to the unsuspecting labor working in a paddy field who were forced to act as coolies that these white men lost their toes trying to summit a 8000 meter mountain? What part of all the glory and pride did they gain? What good is an expedition, if it has to be carried, literally, by slave labor? I love mountaineering and this is the king of mountaineering books. The story of the first 8000 meter mountain to be climbed. The first to be climbed on the first try. Yet, Annapurna still remains the most difficult mountain on Earth to climb. Maurice Herzog's team of French mountaineers suffered greatly for claiming Annapurna's summit, but in the end all I could say is, "They just don't build men like they used to." This crew of postcolonialism adventurers bit off more than they could handled, but still managed to swallow while choking. A must read for anyone even if you have no interest in mountaineering. A readable telling of the first summiting of an 8000m mountaina few years before Hillary climbed Everest with Tensing. It was the days of barefooted porters, climbers smoking cigarettes at any given opportunity and Indian Survey maps which only vaguely resemble to actual lie of the land. In fact a chapter is devoted to wandering about attempting to locate Annapurna.
There is some controversy over whether the climb eventuated the way this book is told, where Herzog does take a lot of the glory of the expedition.

Regardless of how romanticised the story told is, and despite the fact I have read quite a lot of mountain climbing books, I really don't fundamentally understand the personal drive required for climbing. To me it is absolute madness to push on regardless of common sense, knowing that if you somehow do survive, frostbite and the loss of fingers, toes or worse will render you less able to climb again in the future, let alone anything else!

One thing I found strange about the translation, as I suspect that is where it occurred, is the constant changing of units of measure. Metres, feet, millimetres, inches, miles... it is just all over the show, sometimes within the same sentence or paragraph. Obviously a French expedition, so the metric system should have been relevant. Maybe Herzog himself was too used to conversing with those peoples who were still suffering the imperial system of measure... given the year, most had not metricated by this time. There are even three holdouts todaylets hear it for the USA, Liberia and Myanmar. Caution: This is going to be a long review.

As pretty much summed up in the description, this is the story of the first ascent of an 8000’er peak.
Back in 1950, there was no idea of climbing a peak of such a status. The maps provided by Surveyor General of India and other governmental agencies were insufficient, inaccurate and sometimes misleading. With such maps and an appalling quality of climbing equipment, Herzog and team made it up to the summit of the mighty Annapurna. It surely was a huge feat and opened new possibilities in the field of mountaineering.

The book started with Herzog and team setting off from French Alpine Club. The team surely looked confidant and competitive, none who would lack any climbing skill.
I liked the way how this entire expedition was thought of. The climbing from one camp to another, setting up a camp, going out for reconnaissance, finding routes, looking for possibilities, all sounded highly inspiring and motivating to a climber like me. It gave me a fresh outlook of how things were done in those times, how a real route finding/opening was done. At this point, Herzog looked like an elite mountaineer who knew what to do when and how to go about it. The team also kept pace with his thoughts and carried on the expedition.

However, things changed after they decided to abandon their original plan of climbing Dhaulagiri and turned their attention to Annapurna. The prospect looked good. But, there was something about the way they climbed that troubled me.

I found Maurice highly dominating and somewhat a narcissist. All I read in the book was about “I did this, I planned this, I called out for this, I risked this, I went through this, etc.” There was no “we” element in the entire account. I think he just focused on what he wanted or what he felt.

Surprisingly, everybody in the team blindly followed him even when it seemed wrong. Nobody seemed to express their views. I was getting a little suspicious about the entire account and searched online about this expedition. Turns out that there are many conflicting views of Herzog and other climbers. In fact, Herzog had made all his fellow climbers sign some papers stating that no one should write their own account about the expedition for a stipulated amount of time. This came in as a surprise and sadly my suspicions were confirmed.

Since, we are talking only about this account of the ascent of Annapurna; I will rest my suspicion aside and consider this book to be a true account of the climb.

There were many unsettling things in the way Herzog conducted himself. After reading this book, I felt that he had a habit of imposing his opinions on others, highly conceited, inconsiderate towards the safety of his fellow climbers. Moreover, he didn't even treated the Sherpas right. Calling them coolies and forcing tasks over them is certainly not what a mountaineer does!
A few extracts from the book:

“Looking all about me, I felt an exhilarating sense of domination, and complete confidence in our victory.”

“I was delighted to be able to tell them that Annapurna was practically in the bag!”

Coming to the story, according to the hazardous situation explained about Camp V, I think it was pointless to carry on the expedition beyond that. It was becoming pretty obvious from the analysis of Herzog himself that the weather is uncertain, it will be highly dangerous to carry on climbing that too with little pieces of information they had about climbing Annapurna.

Lachenal who came across as a sensible man wanted to go back to lower camps. Somehow, because Herzog wanted to carry on, Lachenal decided to go on with him. On the retreat, both somehow managed to make it to Camp V but with frostbitten feet and hands. The descent from Camp V to lower camps looks a little sketchy. Also Herzog and Lachenal because of their medical condition hardly did anything on their own to climb down. Thanks to the rest of the team and sherpas, both were brought back alive. But isn’t a summit of any mountain just a halfway of the entire expedition? Isn’t climbing down more difficult than just ascending and summiting a peak? Will this even qualify as a true summit? I don’t know. I leave this question to pioneer mountaineers reading my review.

The entire time after coming down to Camp V, Herzog was only interested in his treatment and how he will get down (obviously with the tremendous effort of his team and sherpas). He continuously blabbered on about his medical condition paying less or no heed to what other climbers were going through. Didn’t he have any moral sense of responsibility towards them? After all he was the one who lead everybody in such a disaster. I didn’t see any remorse in his speech. The last few chapters were full of unimportant information and Herzog’s pain and agony. I kept rolling my eyes now and then as it had started to bug me.

Herzog’s only motivation to climb Annapurna was glory. I don’t know how much love he had for mountains, for climbing and for himself but glory was the only thing we was concerned with even if it meant to have it at the cost of his and his fellow climbers’ life.

“Henceforth only one thing would count the victory that we had brought back, that would remain forever with us as a miraculous consolation.”

After reading this book, I went into my shell to really take all this in. I introspected a lot about what climbing means to me, is glory more important than someone’s or my own life?
I will not call myself a mountaineer. I am a routine climber who likes to go hiking in the Himalayas. I have done a few mountaineering courses though. I have been taught and have experienced living a rugged life. I have felt the pain of not being able to scale a peak, have rejoiced moments when I did, have had a few ups and downs like every other climber.

This book posed a very important question to me. Will I ever want to risk my life for glory? Will I ever want to risk all that I have for one summit?
The answer is NO.
I do not think that any mountain summit is worth giving my life for. No summit/expedition is worth risking my hands and my feet. Though, I will never shy away from going to THE next level, I will not shy away from taking calculated risks. I will not think twice if my expedition leader thinks that it is worth going for. That is totally a different scenario.
But if it is already clear that proceeding for the summit means inviting danger and peril to me or my fellow climbers, I will not be able to climb further.
I remember my instructors telling me that “if you are alive and well, you can scale a peak/climb anytime. The peak will not go anywhere. But if you die/get injured it is impossible to come back and climb the peak”.

In today’s time, when mountaineering has been highly commercialized, I think this is the most relevant question and topic of all times. We hear reports and news about so many accidents on Everest and other peaks where the climber did not listen to his expedition leader and put his life and his team’s life in danger. We hear people climbing Everest for a record “x” number of times to claim records. Today, people climb only for glory and not for the love of mountains or climbing. It is indeed a sad plight.
In this book too, Herzog climbed and acclaimed glory but at what cost? He was not able to climb for the rest of his life. He could have easily aborted his mission when he realized that the weather is bad and it will be perilous to go further. With fresh start and fresh information, the team could have easily summited next year.
I feel bad for the rest of the team. I understand that Herzog has been acclaimed as a pioneer mountaineer but to me he came across as a total jerk!

Then why the 3 stars?
I liked how Herzog explained how he carried on the expedition initially. At that time he had a clear and a logical way to go around things. The 3 stars are just for the initial chapters.

Recommendations: I would recommend this book to mountaineering enthusiasts to learn how reconnaisance can be carried out. On the other hand, also to learn what not to do in an expedition. This is a bit of a slog until they get to Annapurna and start the summit. After that point, it becomes a gripping story. A large part of me finds it hard to believe such adventures are called a success when the only reason many of the French climbing team is alive is because Sherpas literally carried them down the mountain and then all the way to India (while the white men's digits were literally rotting off). In fact the two who sumitted would almost certainly have died. I don't think their French climbing partners would have been able to rescue them as not enough of them were in decent shape. Two of them did provide critical help at Camp IVV but at a certain point it was up to the backs of the Sherpas to carry these men out. Aside from the impressiveness of the physical challenge I question some of the decisions made high up on the mountain. I know they weren't thinking straightand they knew that as wellbut shouldn't such experienced mountaineers realize that living to climb another day is smarter than endangering so many people to be the first at something? That perhaps keeping all your fingers and toes is a much smarter decision? That taking an extra pair of gloves, in spite of the weight, is a good idea? We don't reward these kinds of smart decisions in western societythe holdingback kind. I wonder if we should.
There are also many moments of cultural discomfort with Herzog praising the Sherpas and coolies (as he called them) and then constantly admonishing them to go slowly and be careful as he is carried on their backs. Towards the end of their travels it sounds like they were forcibly enlisting people to help carry things out. Many of these people didn't stick around to be paid but fled when they could. Herzog seems to think those who stayed were ok with being forced to labor as there were smiles all around.
The book also leaves me with even more admiration for the modern climbers who do the solo/fast and light/no oxygen thing. Mountaineering is always a bit of a group activity, but for those who solo it as much as possible (thereby limiting the risks/dangers to only oneself)my hat is off to them. The writer or the translator described the events in this book in a way that made it not worth my time. I was astoundingly impressed with what was accomplished considering the technology they had, while smoking, but found myself scanning through pages that left a lot to be desired. The summit of Annapurna was a masterpiece of climbing, and the book is nothing short of a bible for enthusiasts… however, if you’re new to the genre I would still recommend Eiger Dreams by Krakauer. Its much more approachable and far less studied. Annapurna took a while to get off the ground both for the men tackling the rock and for the narrative. They had to find and scout the mountain, set up supply chains, and it was all very tedious, necessary and excruciating. The narrative suffered for it, unless you are really into rudimentary logistics as a hobby its important that’s its there, it shows the scale of their feat, patience, and tenacity, but it’s a bit tiresome to read.

Their successful summit was miraculous, and would not be repeated again for many years. Even today, in the face of the growing commercialism of Everest, Annapurna remains one of the deadliest mountains, having only been summited around 200 times. Reading about the summit is mind boggling, and fills the reader with a heady dreaminess. I know there is controversy surrounding Herzog’s attitude/actions on the summit, Lachenal acting like a much more experienced climber, noting danger signs, etc… but given what we now know about the effects of HAPE and debilitated thinking with decreased oxygen, if it doesn’t explain some of his “out of body” experience and subsequent troubling decisions. Still, it is this section, and the sections pertaining to the gangrene and amputations to follow that are must reads for all wouldbe climbers. This was a beautiful endeavor, and while no lives were lost, livelihood was, it is always important to remember that the mountains can choose to exact their price whenever they choose.